The mighty hot dog is often thought of as a distinctly American thing—a thing fast-talking men in suits munched on at brightly-lit counter joints in black and white movies. But like pretty much everything else that ever got the American treatment, it has origins elsewhere. Take, for instance, that classic Viennese coffee house where lanky franks get slashed in criss-cross fashion and topped with pungent mustard, fresh horseradish, and pots of guasch sauce, a classy Old World antecedent to so many America meat sauces.
A new generation of delis are reclaiming the venerable food, and not just in the traditional sense. While many are serving upscale versions of the dish (think Reuben on a potato roll), others are showcasing regional variations on the classic, with a nod to the past but also an eye toward the future.
Tucked in the back corner of Southeast Division’s busy Lot food pod, Dog House Deli keeps it simple, specializing in tender, beer-braised franks that are served with generously loaded condiments and a whole lot of attitude. The wide-ranging menu includes burgers, burritos and tater tot bowls, as well as a few vegan specialties. Grab a seat in the cramped but charming vintage interior or snag a picnic-style bench outside under permanent covering.